A small place of Roman origin situated right in the heart of the verdant Upper Alentejo region, Alter do Chão is a pretty town with a long equestrian history.
Located 50 kilometres (31 miles) due north of Estremoz, and a short drive south of Crato, it was originally founded by Elteri in 204 BC (who named it Abelterium) until it was razed to the ground under the Emperor Hadrian after the inhabitants were accused of disloyalty, eventually being re-established in the 13th century.
Evidence of its prosperity during the later textile years of the 16th century can be seen in the form of an attractive Renaissance marble fountain and a scattering of handsome Baroque mansions with their original wrought-iron balconies in and around the town centre.
Built in 1359 by King Pedro I, lover of the ill-fated Inês de Castro, the town’s imposing five-towered castle dominates the town centre with its striking Gothic porticoes, crenellated walls, cubic turrets and 44-metre-high keep.
Prominently situated in the main Praça da República square, elegant columns hold up the cupola of the striking aforementioned white marble fountain made to order for Dom Teodósio (the 5th Duke of Bragança) in 1556. Close by, the elegant 18th century Palácio do Álamo houses the local tourist office and also serves as a cultural centre with an art gallery and library.
Alter do Chão is most notable as the original breeding centre of the Alter Real horse (a variant of the world-famous Lusitano) and one of these horses called Gentil features in the equestrian statue of King José standing so prominently in Terreiro do Paço square in Lisbon, more commonly known today as Praça do Comércio.
Where to go in the Alentejo
Located just 4 kilometres (2.5 miles) north-west of Alter do Chão lies Coudelaria de Alter, a 300-hectare stud farm founded in 1748 by King João V of the House of Bragança. Yearning for a quality Portuguese horse, he imported a stock of mares from Andulasia, from which the Alter Real is bred.
Besides enjoying a tour of the museum, visitors to Coudelaria de Alter are welcome to watch or take part in some of the centre’s many activities, including horseback riding, carriage-driving and falconry.
A country fair of international renown, the Feira de São Marcos towards the end of April each year is an equestrian showcase highlighting the best of the local Portuguese cuisine, handicrafts and farming techniques along with show-jumping competitions and the annual stud auction.
Spanning the River Seda, the Roman bridge of Vila Formosa (arguably the best-preserved in the whole of Portugal) is a robust six-arched construction situated 12 kilometres (7.5 miles) to the west of Alter do Chão (indicated on the Google map below).
The whole area is worth exploring with several wonderful places to visit within striking distance of Alter do Chão, such as Marvão, a beautiful medieval village located very close to the Spanish border.
Other places of interest include Estremoz (a bustling agricultural centre), the wine town of Borba (where she of the best wines of the Alentejo are produced) and Vila Viçosa, famous for its magnificent royal palace. The charming town of Castelo Branco to the north of Alter do Chão is the perfect base from which to tour the spectacular Serra da Estrela mountain region of central Portugal.
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