Expertly restored and tastefully pedestrianised in recent years, the atmospheric Zona Velha (historic quarter) is now a vibrant tourist hub in the heart of old Funchal, capital of Madeira island.
The nucleus of the first settlement ever founded by Madeira’s earliest residents, this whole area is a picturesque setting of narrow cobblestone streets lined by well-preserved, traditional buildings, some of which date back more than five hundred years.
Over the centuries, this part of central Funchal was the main fishermen’s quarter, with a few of their old boatyards, workshops and taverns happily still in existence.
One of the zone’s key attractions is the gorgeous Capela do Corpo Santo, an exquisite 15th century chapel built by the Guild of São Pedro Gonçalves, an innovative self-help charity set up to raise funds for some of those impoverished fishermen and their families. Take a peak inside its exquisite Gothic doorway to marvel at its striking ceiling paintings, gilded carved wood altars and Manueline-style sculptures.
Another place of immense interest in Funchal’s Zona Velha (indicated on the Google map below) is the Mercado dos Lavradores, a bustling indoor market that bursts into life early in the morning Monday to Saturday (closed Sundays) where all manner of fruit, vegetables, fish, flowers and handicrafts are sold to eager locals and visitors alike.
Close by, a popular purpose-built tourist attraction known as the Madeira Story Centre offers visitors an absorbing overview of the island’s origins as well as its long history.
To the east of the Old Town lies another of the city’s original fishermen’s quarters – Barreirinha – as well as the nearby Forte de São Tiago which was built in 1614 and affords fine sea views from the top. Looking eastwards along the coast you can see the statue of Christ at Ponta da Garajau, and beyond that the Ilhas Desertas.
What to do in Funchal
Besides the Zona Velha, visitors to this fascinating and very historic part of Funchal will find a lot more to see and do in the surrounding streets and squares, such as the waterfront where many excellent eateries can be found offering al fresco dining on warm sunny days.
Here you’ll also find the departure point for the Funchal-Monte Cable Car which transports passengers high up into the hills overlooking Funchal, with the chance of returning on the world-famous toboggan run which Ernest Hemingway described as the ‘most exhilarating ride’ of his life.
The Museu de Arte Sacra (a short walk to the west of the Old Town and just north of the Sugar Museum) is a first-class sacred art museum set in the former episcopal palace. Housing many of the island’s most precious exhibits, the collection includes many rare religious artefacts and an impressive collection of Flemish masterpieces from the 15th and 16th centuries.
To the north lies the historic Convent of Santa Clara (and its intricately-kept subtropical gardens), a building notable for its painted wooden ceiling, walled azulejo tiles and the tomb (supported by lions) of João Gonçalves Zarco, the intrepid Portuguese seafarer who first arrived in Madeira on 1419 from the mainland of Portugal.
With an atmosphere of stately beauty, Funchal’s handsome town hall square (Praça do Município) is a monumental plaza festooned with striking black and white pavings lined with majestic whitewashed buildings a short walk from the Zona Velha.
Nearby stands the almost rustic-style 15th-century Sé Cathedral with its stone floors, Gothic arches, stained-glass windows, Baroque altars and stunning Moorish carved cedar ceiling. The treasury’s star exhibit is the amazing vermeil crucifix gifted by King Manuel I, the ‘Fortunate’.
Continuing west brings you to the Old Blandy Wine Lodge where visitors can immerse themselves in the history of Madeira wine with a tour of the premises and the all-important wine tasting session at the end.
To the north lies Quinta das Cruzes, a 15th-century country house built by the island’s discoverer, Zarco, which is worth visiting for its fabulous museum and gardens.
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