Nestling on the banks of the River Sizandro on the edge of the verdant Serra de Montejunto, the charming country town of Torres Vedras is an ancient place set deep in the heart of Portugal’s enchanting Estremadura region.
Located some 60 kilometres (37 miles) due north of Lisbon, it was inhabited by a series of invaders over the centuries, including the Celts, Visigoths, Romans and the Moors.
Its fascinating Old Quarter, the Centro Histórico, is a pleasant maze of narrow, cobblestone lanes and streets winding gently up to the town’s old castle sat steadfastly on a hill opposite the fort of São Vicente.
A temporary residence for several Portuguese kings over the centuries (including King Dinis I, King João I and King Manuel I), the ancient Castelo de Torres Vedras played a prominent role against the Moors during the Christian Reconquest, with some parts of its original construction (incorporating the royal palace) still standing largely intact.
Protected within the castle walls lies the delightful church of Santa Maria do Castelo, an exquisite edifice complete with two stunning Romanesque portals, several rare paintings and a fine array of 17th-century azulejo tiles.
Torres Vedras has a number of other lovely churches, most notably the Igreja de São Pedro with its beautiful Manueline portal, opulent gilt work and rare 17th-century medallion-shaped tiles in the Baroque style.
Another church well worth visiting is the finely detailed Convento da Graça, an elegant building founded in the early 15th century which today houses the tomb of Saint Gonçalo of Lagos (who was beatified by Pope Pius VI in 1798) and an excellent museum dedicated to the life and work of the renowned locally-born archaeologist, Leonel Trindade (1903-92).
Where to go in Central Portugal
Another sight not to miss in Torres Vedras is the battlemented fountain (the Chafariz dos Canos, dated 1561) which is semi-circular in shape with Gothic arches and a striking Gothic wall at the back.
Despite its many interesting attractions, Torres Vedras is most famous as the headquarters for Arthur Wellesley, the 1st Duke of Wellington’s successful defence of Lisbon from Napoleon’s troops during the Peninsular War in the early 19th century. The earthen battlements now known as the Lines of Torres Vedras incorporated a robust system of fortresses and castles that can still be followed by hikers and history buffs today.
Just 3 kilometres (2 miles) to the east of Torres Vedras lies the prehistoric fortifications of Castro do Zambujal, and beach-lovers are spoilt for choice with several excellent stretches of sand a short drive (15 kilometres) west of the town, such as the pristine Praia de Santa Cruz (one of the best surfing beaches in Portugal).
Visitors to the area can immerse themselves in the local culture by savouring the pasteis de feijão (a sweet pastry filled with sugar, a paste of haricot beans, ground almonds, eggs and several yolks sprinkled with icing sugar), plus the town is also the beating heart of the Estremadura wine region where some of Portugal’s fruitiest reds are produced.
Torres Vedras is also within striking distance of some of Portugal’s top tourist attractions, including Lourinhã (land of the dinosaurs), the vibrant resort town of Ericeira (famous for its fish and seafood restaurants) and Mafra, home to one of Europe’s most magnificent palaces.
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